All you have to do is eat
mexico
Oaxaca city's markets
diy food tour
The Oaxaca City’s Markets DIY Food Tour will take you to 4 of Oaxaca City’s markets, Central de Abastos de Oaxaca, Mercado 20 de Noviembre, Mercado Benito Juárez, and Mercado de La Mecred, where you will sample local delicacies.
Introduction
Oaxaca’s culinary history comprised of indigenous, Spanish, and African influences. Before the arrival of the Spanish, indigenous Zapotec and Mixtec cultures had developed a sophisticated cuisine based on maize, beans, squash, and various herbs and spices. The Spanish brought new ingredients, cooking techniques, and European culinary traditions, such as meats, dairy products, and wheat. The fusion of these cultures led to the creation of unique Oaxacan dishes like mole, tamales, and tlayudas. Additionally, the influence of African slaves brought to Oaxaca by the Spanish introduced new flavours and ingredients, further enriching the region’s culinary heritage.
DIY Tour details
Number of stops: 13
Number of tastings: 19
Tastings: Salsa de Morita with prime rib memelas, Salsa de tomate memelas, Special from Phil memelas (salsa morita, beef, and tender egg), Chapulines, Empanada flor de clabaza, Entomatada, Huitlacoche memelas, Nopalitos con quesillo memelas, Champinones memelas, Chepil Tamale, Amarillo Tamale, Frijol Tamales, Coloradito con arroz y pechuga, Enchilada con cecina (red mole), Barquillos, Nieve de leche quemada with tuna, Barbacoa tacos, Tamales Doña Berta and a walk-though of how to order/eat at the El Pasillo de las Carnes Asadas
ebook "ancient dishes & where to eat them"
I spent a month in Oaxaca researching this book in January 2024. This guide focuses on the ancient dishes of Oaxaca and where to try them at some of the best food stalls and street vendors in town.
ebook "ancient dishes & how to make them"
Learn to make local ancient dishes including tamales, tlyudas, memelas, tetelas, empanada, nieves, and the 7 moles of Oaxaca
diy food tour
Tasting Types
There are 5 different tasting types. The first is a Must Try tasting, which means the dish provides a sense of pleasure, leaves an everlasting impression, evokes something exceptional, and will be remembered. The second is a Tasting Hack, that is for example, a tasting that is combined with another tasting on the tour, that together, create a better tasting experience. A Seasonal tasting is only available during certain times of the year. A Vegetarian tasting does not contain meat (only verified vegetarian tasting are identified). A Best-In-Class tasting is an identification of a top tasting destination. A Cook At Home tasting is where you purchase in store, but cook at home.
Must try
Must try food tasting
Tasting Hack
Special manitpulated tasting
Seasonal
Seasonal tasting
Vegetarian
Vegetarian tasting
Best-in-class
Top tasting destination
Cook at Home
Tasting you purchase in store, but cook at home
Tasting Locations
MARKETS along the tour
Central de Abastos de Oaxaca
The Central de Abastos de Oaxaca is unique due to its raw, authentic, and unfiltered representation of Oaxacan life. Unlike many tourist-oriented markets, it’s a place where locals primarily conduct their daily business. This authenticity is reflected in the vast array of products, from everyday essentials to exotic ingredients, and the bustling, chaotic atmosphere. The market is a microcosm of Oaxacan culture, showcasing the region’s rich culinary heritage and the entrepreneurial spirit of its people.
Television shows filmed: Netflix Street Food: Latin America (2020) S1 E03, Somebody Feed Phil (2022) S5 E1, Anthony Bourdain: Parts Unknown (2014) S3 E04
Address: Juárez Maza, Central de Abasto, 68090 Oaxaca de Juárez, Oax., Mexico
Restaurants:
Mercado 20 de Noviembre
Mercado 20 de Noviembre stands out in Oaxaca for its laser focus on prepared food. While other markets boast diverse goods, this one caters specifically to satiating your appetite. Imagine a labyrinth of stalls, each overflowing with steaming dishes and the mouthwatering aroma of Oaxacan specialties. Unlike other markets, you won’t just find ingredients; here, talented cooks transform fresh produce into delectable meals. Stroll through “El Pasillo de las Carnes Asadas” (Grilled Meats Aisle), where the smoky scent of sizzling meats pulls you in, or grab a ready-made tamale unlike any you’ve seen before.
Address: 20 de Noviembre 512, OAX_RE_BENITO JUAREZ, Centro, 68000 Oaxaca de Juárez, Oax., Mexico
Restaurants:
Mercado Benito Juárez
Mercado Benito Juárez stands out in Oaxaca for its sheer size and variety. Unlike the more specialized offerings of other markets, it caters to almost every need. Here, you’ll find everything from fresh, local produce and a mind-boggling array of chilies to clothing, housewares, and even hair accessories. It’s a popular spot for both tourists and locals, creating a vibrant, bustling atmosphere.
Address: Las Casas S/N, OAX_RE_BENITO JUAREZ, Centro, 68000 Oaxaca de Juárez, Oax., Mexico
Restaurants:
Mercado de La Mecred
For a more manageable market experience, consider the Mercado Merced in Oaxaca. This covered market offers a decent selection of Oaxacan specialties. Find fresh fruits and vegetables, sample local cheeses and cured meats, or grab a delicious prepared meal from one of the many food vendors. The atmosphere is lively but not overwhelming.
Address: Av. José María Morelos 1522A, RUTA INDEPENDENCIA, Centro, 68000 Centro, Oax., Mexico
Restaurants:
market tips
How to order at food stalls in the markets: Find a table associated with the restaurant you want to visit, there may already be a menu on the table, if not one will be delivered or wave down someone who is bringing out food.
At the meats, cheese, vegetables, and fruits items are all sold by weight. If your Spanish is limited, you can point at the product you are interested in and let them know the weight you want to buy. If you are buying fruit or vegetables, fill up a basket and then hand it to the vendor when you are done shopping, they will weigh each item and then let you know how much you owe.
How to pay: Once the meal is complete, they will bring out a bill in pesos.
General tips:
- Many vendors, especially smaller stalls, may not accept credit cards. Bring small bill pesos for easier transactions.
- Bring a reusable bag
- While most vendors prioritize hygiene, use your judgment. Look for stalls with good food handling practices and fresh ingredients.
Tasting menu - Central de Abastos de Oaxaca
Salsa de Morita with prime rib from Memelas Doña Vale (photo credit @diyfoodtours)
Salsa de tomate from Memelas Doña Vale (photo credit @diyfoodtours)
Special from Phil (salsa morita, beef, and tender egg)
(photo credit @diyfoodtours)
Memelas Doña Vale
Must try: (1) Salsa de Morita with prime rib, (2) Salsa de tomate and the (3) Special from Phil (salsa morita, beef, and tender egg)
Television shows: Netflix Street Food: Latin America (2020) S1 E03, Somebody Feed Phil S5 E1
DIY Food Tours: Doña Vale is a name synonymous with the Central de Abastos in Oaxaca. Originally from a rural area, her life took a dramatic turn when a fire destroyed her family home. Forced to rebuild her life in the city, she found solace and opportunity within the bustling market. With unwavering determination, Doña Vale transformed adversity into triumph. Starting with a small stall and a deep-rooted knowledge of traditional Oaxacan cuisine, she began crafting her signature dish: memelas. Through sheer hard work, dedication, and the irresistible flavor of her food, Doña Vale has become a beloved figure at the market and a culinary icon celebrated worldwide.
However, the real star is Doña Vale’s salsa morita. A fiery concoction that balances smoky, earthy flavors with a touch of heat, it’s the secret ingredient to her world-famous memelas. Made with a careful blend of dried morita chiles, tomatoes, onions, and garlic.
Cash-only, doesn’t accept reservations, can have long lines (all the food tours stop here)
How to portion: On order can provide up to 3 tastings
Hours: Sunday Closed
Monday 7 AM–12 PM
Tuesday 7 AM–12 PM
Wednesday 7 AM–12 PM
Thursday 7 AM–12 PM
Friday 7 AM–12 PM
Saturday 7 AM–12 PM
Website: NA
Instagram: @memelasdonavale
Chapulines Doña Jose (photo credit @diyfoodtours)
Chapulines Doña Jose
Must try: Chapulines
How to portion: One grasshopper can provide one tasting
DIY Food Tours: Chapulines Doña Jose is a small, family-run business that has been selling chapulines in Central de Abastos de Oaxaca for many years. They are known for their high-quality chapulines and their friendly service.
Chapulines or grasshoppers, have been a staple in the Oaxacan diet for centuries, dating back to pre-Columbian times. These insects were a vital protein source for indigenous peoples, especially during lean times. Their abundance in the region’s fields made them easily accessible food. Traditionally, chapulines were collected during the rainy season, roasted, or dried for later consumption.
The flavour of chapulines is often described as a complex blend of nutty, earthy, and slightly salty notes. Their texture is crunchy, similar to popcorn or small shrimp.
Address: Módulo Q 19, Central de Abasto, 68090 Oaxaca de Juárez, Oax., Mexico
Hours: NA
Website: NA
Instagram: NA
Tasting menu - Mercado de Mecred
Empanada flor de clabaza from Fonda Florecita (photo credit @diyfoodtours)
Fonda Florecita
Must try: Empanada flor de clabaza
How to portion: On order can provide up to 6 tastings
DIY Food Tours: In Oaxacan cuisine, calabaza (squash) takes center stage in many beloved dishes. It’s not just a filler, but a celebrated ingredient prized for its versatility and subtle sweetness. Beyond the iconic squash blossom empanadas (empanada flor de calabaza), calabaza finds its way into savoury stews, comforting soups like sopa de calabaza (squash soup), and even sweet treats like calabaza en tacha, a slow-cooked squash simmered in piloncillo syrup for a delightful caramelized finish. Oaxacan cooks utilize both the flesh and the seeds of the squash, maximizing its flavour and adding a touch of earthy texture to various dishes. This humble gourd is a testament to Oaxacan ingenuity, transforming a simple ingredient into a cornerstone of their rich culinary tradition.
Cash-only, doesn’t accept reservations
Hours: Sunday 8 AM–6 PM
Monday 8:30 AM–6 PM
Tuesday Closed
Wednesday 8 AM–6 PM
Thursday 8 AM–6 PM
Friday 8 AM–6 PM
Saturday 8 AM–6 PM
Website: NA
Instagram: @fondaflorecita_oficial
Entomatada from Fonda Rosita (photo credit @diyfoodtours)
Fonda Rosita
Must try: Entomatada
How to portion: One order can provide up to 4 tastings
DIY Food Tours: Cash-only. An entomatada is a Mexican dish consisting of corn tortillas bathed in a rich tomato sauce. This culinary treat is particularly popular in Oaxaca City, where it’s often served as a satisfying breakfast.
The key to a great entomatada lies in the quality of the tomato sauce. In Oaxaca, it’s typically made with fresh, ripe tomatoes, onions, garlic, and a touch of chili for a subtle kick. The tortillas are then dipped in this flavourful sauce until fully coated.
Hours: Sunday 8 AM–6 PM
Monday 8 AM–6 PM
Tuesday 8 AM–6 PM
Wednesday 8 AM–6 PM
Thursday 8 AM–6 PM
Friday 8 AM–6 PM
Saturday 8 AM–6 PM
Website: NA
Instagram: @fondarositaoax
Memaleas (Huitlacoche (right), Nopalitos (bottom) con quesillo, and Champinones (top)) from La Guerita (photo credit @diyfoodtours)
La Guerita
Must try: Memelas (1) Huitlacoche, (2) Nopalitos con quesillo, and (3) Champinones
How to portion: One memele can provide up to 3 tastings
DIY Food Tours: Cash only. Memelas are a beloved Oaxacan street food, characterized by their thick, round corn tortillas. These tortillas are typically cooked on a griddle, giving them a slightly crispy exterior and a soft, chewy interior. Traditionally, memelas are simply topped with fresh Oaxaca cheese, which melts deliciously under the warm tortilla. However, the versatility of memelas allows for endless combinations of toppings. You can find them loaded with various meats, beans, salsas, and vegetables
Hours: Sunday 8 AM–Undetermined
Monday 8 AM–Undetermined
Tuesday Closed
Wednesday 8 AM–Undetermined
Thursday 8 AM–Undetermined
Friday 8 AM–Undetermined
Saturday 8 AM–Undetermined
Website: NA
Instagram: NA
Chepil, Amarillo, Frijol Tamales (left to right) from Tamales Geno (photo credit @diyfoodtours)
Tamales Geno
Must try: (1) Chepil Tamale, (2) Amarillo Tamale, and (3) Frijol Tamales
How to portion: One tamale can provide up to 4 tastings
DIY Food Tours: A Chepil tamale is a culinary treasure from Oaxaca. Wrapped in a corn husk, its masa is infused with the distinctive flavour of chepil, a wild herb prized for its earthy and slightly bitter taste.
An Amarillo tamale is named for its vibrant yellow hue, it derives its colour and distinctive flavour from the rich mole amarillo sauce that envelops the tender masa. This mole is a complex blend of dried chiles, spices, and seeds, creating a savoury and slightly sweet base for the tamale. Traditionally, the filling is a mixture of shredded chicken or pork, though variations exist.
Frijol tamales feature a corn masa dough filled with a rich and flavourful bean paste. The beans are often seasoned with garlic, onion, and a touch of chili, then wrapped in corn husks and steamed.
Hours: Sunday 7 AM–1:30 PM
Monday 7 AM–1:30 PM
Tuesday 7 AM–1:30 PM
Wednesday 7 AM–1:30 PM
Thursday 7 AM–1:30 PM
Friday 7 AM–1:30 PM
Saturday 7 AM–1:30 PM
Website: NA
Instagram: NA
Tasting menu - Mercado 20 de Noviembre
Coloradito con arroz y pechuga from Comedor Típico La Abuelita (photo credit @diyfoodtours)
Comedor Típico La Abuelita
Must try: Coloradito con arroz y pechuga
How to portion: One order can provide up to 5 tastings
DIY Food Tours: Coloradito is one of the seven iconic moles of Oaxaca. This rich, complex sauce is characterized by its brick-red hue, from which it gets its name. Unlike its darker counterparts, Coloradito offers a more nuanced flavor profile. It’s a harmonious blend of spicy, smoky, tangy, and sweet notes, achieved through a meticulous combination of chiles, spices, nuts, seeds, and sometimes even fruits like plantains and raisins.
Hours: Sunday 7 AM–8:30 PM
Monday 7 AM–8:30 PM
Tuesday 7 AM–8:30 PM
Wednesday 7 AM–8:30 PM
Thursday 7 AM–8:30 PM
Friday 7 AM–8:30 PM
Saturday 7 AM–8:30 PM
Website: NA
Instagram: NA
Enchilada con cecina (red mole) from Fonda Sofi (photo credit @diyfoodtours)
Fonda Sofi
Must try: Enchilada con cecina (red mole)
How to portion: One order can provide up to 5 tastings
DIY Food Tours: Cash only. Oaxacan Enchiladas unlike their northern Mexican counterparts, often feature a simpler approach, highlighting the quality of the ingredients. Corn tortillas are typically dipped in a rich mole sauce, such as mole coloradito or mole negro, before being filled with a variety of ingredients like shredded chicken, cheese, or grasshoppers (chapulines). The enchiladas are then baked or fried.
Oaxacan cecina is crafted from pork, rather than beef, and is known for its rich, complex flavour profile. The meat is thinly sliced and marinated in a blend of chiles, spices, and vinegar, creating a tangy and slightly spicy base. Once marinated, the pork is typically air-dried, allowing the flavours to intensify. When cooked, often grilled or pan-fried, the cecina develops a crispy exterior while remaining tender on the inside.
Hours: Sunday 7 AM–9 PM
Monday 7 AM–9 PM
Tuesday 7 AM–9 PM
Wednesday 7 AM–9 PM
Thursday 7 AM–9 PM
Friday 7 AM–9 PM
Saturday 7 AM–9 PM
Website: NA
Instagram: NA
El Pasillo de las Carnes Asadas
step-by-step guide on how to order, eat, and pay at "El Pasillo de las Carnes Asadas" (Grilled Meats Aisle) in Mercado 20 de Noviembre
Must try: El Pasillo de las Carnes Asadas
DIY Food Tours: El Pasillo de las Carnes Asadas, also known as the “Alley of Grilled Meats,” is a vibrant and bustling section within the Mercado 20 de Noviembre in Oaxaca, Mexico. It’s a culinary paradise for meat lovers, where the air is filled with the tantalizing aroma of grilled meats and the lively chatter of vendors and customers
How to portion: Order everything that you find interesting and share
Hours: Sunday 7 AM–7:30 PM
Monday 7 AM–7:30 PM
Tuesday 7 AM–7:30 PM
Wednesday 7 AM–7:30 PM
Thursday 7 AM–7:30 PM
Friday 7 AM–7:30 PM
Saturday 7 AM–7:30 PM
Enter the Aisle: Follow the smoky goodness of grilled meats to find El Pasillo de las Carnes Asadas, a bustling corridor lined with meat vendors. Each vendor showcases a variety of raw meats, from sizzling steaks and juicy sausages to flavourful lamb and chicken.
Choose Your Meat: Take your time to browse the meat displays and select the cuts that entice your taste buds. Popular choices include arrachera (skirt steak), chorizo (Mexican sausage), and tasajo (dried beef). If you’re unsure, ask the vendor for recommendations. Pick a site that has a line up of locals, you know they have good meat.
Specify Your Doneness: Indicate how you would like your meat cooked – rare (poco cocido), medium (medio), or well-done (bien cocido). If you prefer a specific level of doneness, such as medium-rare, don’t hesitate to ask.
Order Sides and Condiments: While your meat is grilling, explore the nearby stalls for sides and condiments. Consider adding tortillas, salsa, guacamole, grilled onions, or pickled jalapeños to complement your meal. You will pick the sides and they will bring them to your table.
Find a Seating Area: Locate a communal table or bench near your chosen vendor and settle in to wait for your culinary masterpiece. The atmosphere at El Pasillo de las Carnes Asadas is lively and communal, so enjoy the buzz of the market.
Collect Your Order: Once your meat is cooked to perfection, the vendor will call out your name or number. I had another vendor bring the meat to the table, so go with the flow. Gather your sides and condiments, and head to your seating area to savour the flavours of Oaxaca.
Enjoy Your Feast: Dig into your grilled meats and condiments.
Pay and Express Gratitude: After enjoying your meal, approach the vendor to settle the bill. Thank them for the delicious food and the authentic Oaxacan experience.
Tasting menu - Mercado Benito Juárez
Barquillos (the stuffed rolled cone) from Dulces Regionales “memo” El dulce Sabor de Oaxaca (photo credit @diyfoodtours)
Dulces Regionales "memo" El dulce Sabor de Oaxaca
Must try: Barquillos
DIY Food Tours: Oaxacan Barquillos are delicate, crispy wafers rolled into cones or tubes. They are typically made with flour, sugar, eggs, and vanilla, and sometimes include other flavors like cinnamon or chocolate. Barquillos are often filled with a sweet cream or cajeta (caramelized goat’s milk) filling.
How to portion:
Hours: NA
Website: NA
Instagram: NA
Nieve de leche quemada with tuna from Nieves Chagüita (photo credit @diyfoodtours)
Nieves Chagüita
Must try: Nieve de leche quemada with tuna
How to portion: One order can provde up to 5 tastings
DIY Food Tours: Nieve de leche quemada con tuna
is a unique and flavourful Oaxacan dessert that combines the creamy sweetness of burnt milk ice cream with the tangy, briny taste of tuna (prickly pear cactus flower). The ice cream is made by caramelizing milk until it has a rich, smoky flavour, and then churning it into a smooth and creamy frozen treat. The tuna is typically canned or cooked and then added to the ice cream, often with a splash of lime juice or a drizzle of hot sauce.
Hours: Sunday 11:30 AM–7 PM
Monday 11:30 AM–7 PM
Tuesday 11:30 AM–7 PM
Wednesday 11:30 AM–7 PM
Thursday 11:30 AM–7 PM
Friday 11:30 AM–7 PM
Saturday 11:30 AM–7 PM
Website: https://www.oaxaca-mio.com/chaguita.htm
Instagram: @nieves.chaguitaoax
Rosy from Taco Rosy (photo credit @diyfoodtours)
Taco Rosy
Must try: Barbacoa tacos
How to portion: One taco can provide 3 tastings
DIY Food Tours: Cash-only. Barbacoa tacos are a traditional Mexican dish that features slow-cooked, shredded meat, typically beef or lamb. The meat is often cooked over an open fire or in an underground pit, giving it a smoky and tender flavour. Barbacoa is typically served in corn tortillas and topped with a variety of toppings, such as onions, cilantro, lime, and salsa.
Hours: Sunday Closed
Monday 9 AM–5 PM
Tuesday 9 AM–5 PM
Wednesday 9 AM–5 PM
Thursday 9 AM–5 PM
Friday 9 AM–5 PM
Saturday 9 AM–5 PM
Website: NA
Instagram: NA
Tamale from Tamales Doña Berta (photo credit @diyfoodtours)
Tamales Doña Berta
Must try: Whatever she is selling that day
DIY Food Tours: Tamales are a traditional Mesoamerican dish consisting of a corn dough masa filled with various ingredients, such as meat, cheese, vegetables, or fruit. The dough is wrapped in leaves or husks, steamed or boiled, and then unwrapped to reveal the savoury or sweet filling.
How to portion: A small order can provide up to 4 tastings
Hours: NA
Website: NA
Instagram: NA
Items to buy/try and take home
photo credit @diyfoodtours
Oaxacan cheese
Oaxaca cheese is a versatile and delicious Mexican cheese known for its stringy texture and mild, nutty flavour. It is made from cow’s milk and is often used in a variety of dishes, including quesadillas, enchiladas, and Oaxaca-style cheese. There are several types of Oaxaca cheese, each with its own unique characteristics:
Oaxaca Queso: This is the most common type of Oaxaca cheese, characterized by its soft, stringy texture and mild, nutty flavour. It is frequently used in quesadillas and other melted cheese dishes.
Queso Asadero: Similar to Oaxaca Queso, Queso Asadero is a soft, stringy cheese that is often used as a melting cheese. It has a slightly saltier flavor than Oaxaca Queso.
Queso Enchilado: This type of Oaxaca cheese is marinated in a chili sauce, giving it a spicy and tangy flavour. It is typically used in enchiladas and other spicy dishes.
Queso Oaxaca Ahumado: This smoked Oaxaca cheese has a smoky flavour and a slightly firmer texture than the other types. It is regularly used in grilled or roasted dishes.
photo credit @diyfoodtours
mole
Oaxacan mole is a complex and flavorful sauce that is a staple of Mexican cuisine. It is typically made with a combination of chili peppers, chocolate, nuts, seeds, spices, and often includes ingredients like plantains, tomatoes, and tortillas. The exact recipe for mole can vary greatly, but it always involves a lengthy preparation process of roasting, grinding, and blending the ingredients to create a rich and flavorful sauce. Oaxacan mole is often served over chicken, turkey, or pork
photo credit @diyfoodtours
bread
Oaxaca is renowned for its diverse culinary offerings, and bread plays a significant role in the local cuisine. Here are some of the popular bread varieties you can find in Oaxaca:
Pan de Yema: This sweet bread is made with egg yolks, giving it a rich and buttery flavour. It is often enjoyed for breakfast or as a snack.
Pan de Jengibre: This ginger bread is a popular treat in Oaxaca, especially during the holiday season. It has a spicy and slightly sweet flavour and is typically enjoyed with a cup of coffee or hot chocolate.
Conchas: These sweet pastries are shaped like seashells and are filled with a creamy filling. They are a popular street food and can be found in a variety of flavours, including vanilla, chocolate, and strawberry.
photo credit @diyfoodtours
fresh fruit
General Fruit Seasons in Oaxaca
Spring (March-May):
Mangoes
Tamarind
Guanábana (Soursop)
Papaya
Coconut
Avocado
Summer (June-August):
Mangoes (peak season)
Watermelon
Cantaloupe
Pineapple
Lime
Lemon
Autumn (September-November):
Chirimoya (Custard Apple)
Zapote Negro (Black Sapote)
Mamey
Guava
Fig
Coconut
Winter (December-February):
Orange
Grapefruit
Tangerine
Avocado
Coconut
Banana
Year-round:
Banana
Coconut
Lime
Lemon
QUESTIONS/RECOMMENDATIONS/UPDATES
Email: Matt@diyfoodtours.com
